Review: Empress, Stirchley

When I learned ‘a taste of regal Africa’ had arrived in Birmingham, I was keen to check it out.

With the paint barely dry after opening its doors in Stirchley just last month, Empress Nigerian fine dining restaurant is already proving a hot favourite with discerning foodies.

And it’s the result of an impressive transformation of the long-vacant Dogpool Hotel, successfully blending the region’s industrious spirit with the rich flavours and warmth of Nigerian hospitality.

Whilst I must confess to this being my first experience of Nigerian cuisine outside of Africa - I’m assured Empress has succeeded in redefining the menu as elegant and contemporary while still deeply rooted in tradition. I can appreciate all of this and, from first impressions, the restaurant certainly seems to be delivering on all fronts.

Signature dishes such as Smokey Jollof Rice, Deluxe Fried Rice, Abula, Assorted Meat Pepper soup, Empress Royale Platter and VIP Seafood Okro (okra), can be paired with craft cocktails inspired by African ingredients and palm-wine blends.

Efo Riro is also on the menu; a rich Yoruba soup made by simmering peppers, tomatoes, and onions in palm oil with locust beans and spices, then mixing in green leafy vegetables, traditionally Efo Shoko or Efo Tete (similar to spinach or kale) and assorted meats or fish. This beloved Nigerian classic is hearty, spicy, and comforting.

My choice of Chicken Suya (chicken pieces marinated in West African spices) followed by Lamb Chops, delicately seasoned, with Jollof, were as hearty as they were delicious. Don’t be misled by the phrase ‘Small Plates’ on the menu however. They are not akin to the traditional Starters and the unofficiated, like us, can all too easily overorder. That said, we left very little on our plates such was the desire to finish it all. A feast for meat lovers especially.

The restaurant’s interior design creates a reassuring wow factor upon entrance, evoking regal modern Africa: rich green and gold tones, soft lighting, florals and art that celebrates the Empress — which I’m informed is a symbol of strength and unity.

There’s definitely a strong sense of customer service here too. This is a friendly, welcoming and exciting offering for local diners – but should not be ruled out for those, like us, also slightly further afield, such is its unique appeal.

Staff are attentive and helpful without being intrusive, striking a balance between professionalism and warmth. My many questions prompted by my nervousness with spice were well received and service is paced to allow guests to savour each course while enjoying the surroundings. In fact every detail in the 70-seater restaurant is designed to make guests feel both at home and indulged. Satisfaction on all levels and a refreshing new addition to the local dining scene.

But go hungry!

Visit: www.empressrestaurants.co.uk

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Amanda is a journalist of 30 years and now runs an award-winning PR agency based in Warwickshire. When she's not writing about her own clients she loves to help spotlight the great work of other pubs, restaurants and hotels around the country.

www.chalmersnewspr.co.uk