Review: Firebird, Soho

Firebird is a female-founded, Mediterranean-inspired open-fire restaurant and wine bar tucked away in Poland Street in Soho.

At the helm of the kitchen is Head Chef Ben Munslow, whose produce-led approach has built a devoted following. Guests can expect to be choosing from a menu of fresh and seasonal produce, with everything sourced from local and regional suppliers.

The bar at Firebird is treated with the same care and ambition as the kitchen. The wine list champions small, natural and biodynamic producers from across Europe. The list is curated by co-founder and Sommelier Anna Dolgushina, whose passion for winemaking defines Firebird’s bar menu, as much as its food.

The cocktail list sits happily alongside the wine list, and is thoughtfully curated, incorporating unexpected and brilliant ingredients to create twists on old favourites - think Baked Banana Old Fashioned, a Kiwi Daiquiri and my particular favourite - this sophisticated yet summery Dirty Tomato Martini, made using house-infused basil vodka. 

Designed to feel intimate and alive, the restaurant houses 45 covers, featuring counter seating, directly in front of the kitchen and the custom-made open-fire grill that sits at the heart of the room. Exposed brick, wooden beams and greenery create a space that's a soothing escape from the busy streets of Soho. Staff are friendly, knowledgeable about the menu and attentive without being intrusive, allowing you to relax immediately.

I'm happy that the whipped cod's roe trend is still going strong, as this is one of my favourite starter dishes: an unashamedly flavourful wake-up call for your palate but light enough to sharpen rather than blunt your appetite. Served here with radishes providing a fresh and contrasting textural crunch, I would pair this with one of the dirty tomato martinis while you peruse the rest of the menu.

Firebird's tuna tartare with ponzu and cured egg yolk is a don't-miss dish. Ponzu is a Japanese citrus-based dipping sauce which brings a vibrant acidity, whilst stirring the cured egg yolk through the meaty tuna adds an indulgent richness, like saucing a steak tartare. Beautifully balanced and very moreish; think carefuly before you offer to share.

Grilled prawns, sobrasada and vermouth were perfectly cooked and served peeled but with the head and tail left on; this makes them suitable both for the slightly squeamish guest who doesn't want to handle the prawns at all and for their adventurous companion who thinks sucking the juices from the heads is the best part. Sobrasada is similar to chorizo but softer-textured and, for me, less strident and overpowering whilst still delivering a spicy kick.

The bone-in sirloin of beef for two people looked (and smelled!) amazing as plate after plate was whisked past our table but we eventually opted for the lighter whole ikijime sea bass (ikijime, or ike-jime, is a Japanese method of quickly killing a fish that is not only more humane but also results in a better flavour). Served with a koshu dressing and a drift of soft herbs, this is a lovely summer plate. The Cornish mid potatoes with herb aioli and heritage tomato salad with a kalamata olives and herb dressing (shown here on the side, as my companion is not an olive fan) were ideal accompaniments: confidently allowing the individual ingredients to sing is a sure sign of a chef's careful sourcing and top quality suppliers.

With barely any room left for pudding, we still managed to order - and finish - this lovely chantilly cream with raspberry granita and cherries. Whether you're looking for a bolthole from central London's frenzied pace or a pitstop on a retail mission, Firebird has got you covered.

Building on Firebird's success, founders Anna Dolgushina and Madina Kazhimova opened their sister restaurant, Noisy Oyster, in Shoreditch a year ago — a modern seafood-focused venue that channels their shared love of food, art, fashion and design into a new east London setting.

Anna says, "Firebird has always been about honest food, honest wine, and a room that feels alive, without pretence. That hasn't changed, we’re still as excited about Firebird as we were the day we opened it — if anything more so as Ben and the team keep finding new ways to push the menu further or we discover a new and incredible small producer to feature on our wine list. Watching this same spirit carry through into the development of Noisy Oyster has been a joy that we’re reflecting on as it turns one this year".

Firebird: 29 Poland Street, London, W1F 8QR

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