Review: Masakali

Inspired by the iconic Bollywood song Masakali, and symbolised by the white pigeon that features in the restaurant's covetable lighting, their name means freedom, joy, and spirited energy. Certainly their original restaurant in Reading is much-loved by locals, and they are hoping to attract the same kind of energy with their new restaurant here on the edge of Camden.

The interior is elegant and comfortable, with plush banquettes, comfy curved chairs and gorgeous pigeon-themed lighting, which is not a phrase I ever thought I'd write. Apparently it was a bespoke order from India, so no stealing their style.

The menu has all your favourites, with some inventive modern twists; think spicy fried okra with honey-chilli mayo, chicken wings in a tangy gongura paste, or gulab jamun churros. We started with the masala papadum basket with three accompaniments: mango chutney, tamarind chutney and a clean and refreshing cucumber and onion salsa. We also tried the hot soup shots, which feel like the perfect start to your meal when it is cold and damp outside; the tomato one in particular is delicious and thrummingly warm with spices, if a little highly seasoned.

The menu has a separate small plates section as well as starters; the crispy coconut-coated fried chicken was a generous portion of succulent and lightly-spiced chicken, served with a curry dipping sauce. Prawn sukka happily turned out to be a plate of huge, perfectly-cooked tiger prawns, spiced with coconut and dry-cooked with curry leaves. They are clearly using quality ingredients, which makes the price point even more attractive.

Signature mains include this Old Delhi butter chicken, layered with flavour and satisfyingly rich and creamy, and their Royal Tiger biryani which includes marinated tiger prawns, quails' eggs, chicken malai and lamb chops, layered with basmati rice and cooked with saffron, caramelised onions, fresh herbs and spices. That sounds like a celebratory dish if ever I heard of one.

By the way, if you spotted the cocktail in an earlier shot, this is what prompted me to try it. In addition to a classic cocktail menu they have this Bollywood-inspired one, with some really interesting flavours and a QR code that means you can watch and listen to the song as you sip.

If I were to go in a group, I'd be very tempted to turn this into a personal playlist game, with everyone ordering a different drink; there is a slightly less formal seating area at the front of the restaurant that might suit this more.

Staff were attentive throughout, and offered to pack up our leftovers to take away. This is something I am actively championing, both to avoid food waste and to make your pennies go further in these trying times. It's good for the restaurant too, as you will order a little more freely knowing that, if you don't finish it, that extra curry and rice or fried chicken will make a delicious lunch the next day.

So go, enjoy, and if you order that magnificent-sounding biryani tell me what you thought, as I am very tempted for next time.

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Deputy Editor, Chatting Food London: Amanda David

Amanda David is a freelance food and drinks writer specialising in London’s restaurants, bars and events. She is the author of EAT THIS NOW! on Substack, the Events Editor and a contributing writer for London Cheapo, a regular contributor to Palate Magazine and a Member of the Guild of Food Writers.

Follow Amanda on Substack and on Instagram: @LondonGAT