Review: The Good Front Room

Chef Dom Taylor, the man behind The Good Front Room, is back with perhaps his best cooking, yet. Famed for a nine-month residency at the Langham Hotel in Central London in 2003/2004, the whirlwind left him tired. He travelled, re-grouped, and has returned with renewed vim and vigour.  

Chef Dom Taylor at The Good Front Room, Dalston

His old place was the first Caribbean restaurant within a five-star London hotel, which quite rightly was met with huge applause. A full reservation book suggested a long stay but that was not to be. The Good Front Room's new Dalston Junction location suggests a more relaxed and nothing to prove approach. This chef knows he's good and is quick to point out that no-one is doing what he is, in London.

Like so many restaurants, service is a four-days-a-week-affair. It's fair to call it a tale of two services. The mid-week evening menu will suit traditionalists - with familiar dishes, presented to a modern ideal because this is fine dining after all.

Caribbean cooking is known to be substantial, with plates piled high. This is a small plates feast, concentrating on refined execution and presentation, while maintaining the flavour combos beloved by so many.

Jerk Chicken arrived to table almost in disguise. Delicately spiced, carefully charred, and layered with other select ingredients, like corn ribs, and seared on hot coals. Its minimalist presentation and crown of paper-thin plantain crisps didn't make it instantly recognisable. Sweet and juicy, delicately-spiced meat, was on the gentler side for a chilli-lover but that's no bad thing. 

Fried seabream served with escovitch onions and peppers took me right back to Jamaica. Modern island cuisine this may be but chef hasn't forgotten traditional sides that the masses love. Rice & Peas, Plantain, Coleslaw and Baked Mac Three Cheese made an appearance. A richer mac 'n' cheese you'd be hard pressed to find so I was grateful for a smaller portion. 

Ackee & Saltfish at The Good Front Room

I loved Ackee & Saltfish Cake - a croquette filled with a combination of the aforementioned. Such a 2026 way of delivering Jamaica's national dish.

Three courses will set you back £85 but remember this is fine dining. The weekend brunch menu differs to the a la carte, vastly. No dreary brunch menus here. It's easy to see the European influence of dishes including Lobster French Toast is served with a coconut rum bisque, green papaya and scallion oil. Loyal to Caribbean ingredients, sausages served with beans on toast are made using goat meat. 

Opening times: 

Thurs and Friday - 5pm-11pm.

Saturday - 12 noon - 2pm and 5pm-11pm.

Sunday - 12 noon - 7pm, with latest booking at 5pm.

The Good Front Room - Thomas Tower, Dalston Square, London, E8 3GU. ​Nearest Station: Dalston Junction Overground via Windrush Line.

Book via the website: www.thegoodfrontroom.co.uk

Contributor Paloma Lacy

Paloma Lacy has been writing on food and restaurants for 15 years. Follow her on Instagram: paloma.lacy