Review: ‘Fashion Becomes Tea’ at The Kensington

Inspired by the Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art exhibition at the V&A, which is just moments from the hotel, this beautiful and elegant afternoon tea is the perfect way to rest and refresh after a spot of culture.

The savoury selection can lack imagination in many afternoon teas, which is a shame as it is usually the first thing you eat and sets the tone. This was definitely not the case here, where dramatic (and delicious) black sesame charcoal brioche buns were packed with cucumber, dill and cream cheese; brown finger sandwiches had a Mediterranean feel with their vegan filling of roasted red pepper, hummus and black olive crumb; and the white bread sandwiches were a nod to the classic Coronation chicken with piped dots of apricot puree.

We also had the chef's seasonal savoury, a generously-filled crab and caviar roll with edible flowers, and a wonderful beetroot, pecan and goat's cheese tart with balsamic vinegar pearls.

It simply isn't afternoon tea without freshly-baked scones. Two fruit and two plain scones were thoughtfully nestled in a linen napkin to keep warm, alongside clotted cream and home-made jam.

The attention to detail shown in the pastries was extraordinary, both in terms of visuals and flavour: themed to couture fashion and surrealist art, they were intricate, delicate and utterly delicious.

The middle tier contained 'The Iconic Atelier' - a zingy mandarin curd tart with white chocolate ganache and orange jelly, shaped like an eye with a remarkably effective jelly dome, fondant lashes and gold leaf in homage to the surrealist movement - and 'Le Trou de Serrure' (which translates as 'the keyhole'); a sophisticated espresso and mascarpone opera gateau celebrating Elsa Schiaparelli's Italian roots, with the finest possible squares of tempered chocolate and a delightful coffee kick.

The top tier of the stand held 'Le Choux Shoe' - a golden caramel choux bun with caramel chocolate and an apricot gel, topped with a tiny fondant high-heeled shoe in a nod to the iconic upside-down shoe hat created with Dali.

Alongside is 'The Pink Parfum', a glittering ruby chocolate bavarois shaped like the renowned 1937 perfume bottle, ‘Shocking’ which is featured in the exhibition; it is flavoured with a medley of berries and sat atop a cacao sablé Breton biscuit. They were all so beautiful it was almost a shame to eat them - but only almost! It is a very generous tea, but don't worry if you can't finish everything; seeing us begin to struggle, the charming staff offered us a cute cardboard box to take our leftovers home.

There is a similar commitment to excellence shown with the accompanying teas. The Kensington works with The Rare Tea Company, who source the finest teas directly from independent farmers around the world. Choose from black, white or herbal teas including traditional English Breakfast and Earl Grey, and perhaps add the themed cocktail or a glass of champagne; it's such fun to be swept up in the irresistible, undeniable glamour of the occasion.

The Kensington have brought their trademark focus on customer experience and a real sense of fun and occasion to this afternoon tea; we thoroughly enjoyed it and hope you do too.

'Fashion Becomes Tea' Afternoon Tea: book here

£65 per person including a selection of Rare Teas

£80 per person including the Le Petite Bisou cocktail or a glass of Charles Heidsieck, Brut Réserve, NV

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Deputy Editor, Chatting Food London: Amanda David

Amanda David is a freelance food and drinks writer specialising in London and Margate’s restaurants, bars and events, and food-focused travel. She is the author of EAT THIS NOW! on Substack, the Events Editor and a contributing writer for London Cheapo, a regular contributor to Palate Magazine and a Member of the Guild of Food Writers.