Review: Ivan Ramen

You may remember our post announcing the opening of Ivan Orkin's London restaurant in October last year; our Deputy Editor for London, Amanda David, headed over to review.

Ivan Orkin has achieved near-legendary status as the New York chef who opened a cult ramen bar in Tokyo and appeared on Netflix's Chef's Table. He's added New York and now London to his empire and I was intrigued to taste his food and discover how his ramen took Tokyo by storm.

The restaurant is small and unfussy: minimalist decor, with the exception of a few framed photographs and a manga-inspired image, bare brick and functional furniture. There are no reservations so expect to queue, although on the plus side the kitchen is alongside so you can watch the chefs (always one of my favourite ways to spend time) and make an informed decision on your choice of ramen.

Soy garlic fried chicken - crispy chicken thighs, toasted garlic caramel, togarashi and shiso ranch was a good way to set the bar for what was to come; that garlic caramel drizzle is addictive.

Next time - and there will be a next time - I'm going to try the chicken karaage, which is becoming an Instagram celebrity in its own right, along with the signature Tori Paitan ramen.

Crispy nasu - Japanese aubergine, white sesame puree, mayu, togarashi, spring onion is another of those Japanese-inspired dishes that seems to bring out the very best of aubergines as an ingredient. There is the lightest possible crispy coating - less than tempura, perhaps a dredge in seasoned cornflour or rice flour before frying? - and aubergine flesh which is soft and yielding but not mushy, on a base of nutty sesame puree and topped with fresh sliced spring onion.

Spicy kyuri pickles - Persian cucumbers, soy, ginger, sesame, chilli vinegar are a must-order, a bright counterpoint to the delicious fatty richness of the ramen broths and the sesame puree.

Tonkotsu ramen - rich pork broth with shoyu-braised pork chashu, woodear mushrooms, pickled mustard greens, mayu, spring onions and a soft-boiled egg. Orkin went down every culinary rabbit-hole while researching his noodle recipe, which includes a little rye flour; it's not a classic ingredient, but it does add a hint of flavour and a little more chew, which we liked. The broth is really layered with flavour, from a slow-cooked pork broth and meltingly soft slices of pork chashu to the jammy-yolked egg and sprightly pickles.

Spicy miso red chilli - chillies, miso, dashi & chicken broth, niku miso pork, coriander, bean sprouts, pickled garlic, togarashi, spring onions and a soft-boiled egg. We were warned that this is genuinely spicy, and it is: think Sichuan hotpot level as a rough guide. Those who can take the heat will be rewarded with a fiery but complex broth; the oil not only deepens but heightens the flavour, coating the inside of your mouth with umami dynamite. Expect to sweat, along with the certain knowledge that it's worth every second.

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Deputy Editor, Chatting Food London: Amanda David

Amanda David is a freelance food and drinks writer specialising in London and Margate’s restaurants, bars and events, and food-focused travel. She is the author of EAT THIS NOW! on Substack, the Events Editor and a contributing writer for London Cheapo, a regular contributor to Palate Magazine and a Member of the Guild of Food Writers.

Follow Amanda on Substack and on Instagram: @LondonGAT