Translated from the Latin ‘in the garden’, In Horto is the latest venture from the tvg hospitality group. Tucked down a pathway criss-crossed with lights in the expanding Southwark Quarter development across from Flat Iron Square, the restaurant feels like a cosy, rustic retreat with earth-toned tile floors, natural wood and lots of greenery.
Seasonal and sustainable, the menu features produce from nearby Borough Market and includes this selection of home-baked breads with a choice of either nduja or burnt onion homemade butter. (I'm definitely stealing the nduja idea for BBQ season this year, it was absolutely delicious!)
Starters include this generous white crab meat, charred baby gem lettuce & brown crab mayonnaise and a very moreish charcuterie board with coppa, bresaola, parma ham, salami, sun-dried peppers, caper berries, artichokes and olives.
Choosing your main course could take a while. How about whole baked cauliflower with four-cheese potatoes, garlic & parsley? Or cod fillet with fire-roasted ratatouille, herb & preserved lemon salsa or perhaps In Horto’s signature 12-hour braised lamb with harissa vegetables?
After much agonising and a significant level of FOMO, we went with the roast chicken with creme fraiche, vermouth, garlic potatoes & leeks plus the beef shin & cheek parmentier with veal bone marrow. The latter particularly was a great antidote to the chilly weather outside.
PSA: when choosing your side dishes, don't miss the confit potato chips. It's also worth checking out the wine list, put together by the multi-award-winning Liberty Wines and including a mix of organic and biodynamic labels.
We didn't get to desserts but apparently the tiramisu is a winner, with their chocolate mousse with salted caramel ice cream and the tarte tatin close runners-up. Ah well, there's always next time.
If you are watching the pennies - and, frankly, who isn't? - then try the lunchtime set menu, available from Wednesdays to Fridays: two courses for just £15 or three for £19.
In Horto, 53b Southwark Street, London SE1 1RU
Opening hours: Wednesday to Saturday 12 midday - 11pm
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Deputy Editor, Chatting Food London: Amanda David
Amanda David is a freelance food writer specialising in London’s restaurants, bars, exhibitions and events. She is the Events Editor for London Cheapo and a regular contributor to Palate Magazine.
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