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Review: No. Fifty Cheyne

Located within the heart of Old Chelsea, No.Fifty Cheyne is a pretty, flower-bedecked restaurant offering a sensationally good value set menu, The Tastes of Fifty.

The menu offers two courses for £25.00 and three for £29.00, cooked by Executive Chef Iain Smith over an open grill.

The dishes make the most of seasonal British produce; this was most evident in our starters where the gravadlax had a refreshing dressing with tart rhubarb and the mellow aniseed notes of fennel. Similarly the asparagus had just the right amount of bite and matched well with a rich crab mayonnaise and delicious pea and mint purée for a real taste of spring.

  • Cured Beetroot and Dill Salmon Gravadlax with crème fraiche, fennel and rhubarb dressing, avocado and baby beetroot.

  • Isle of Wight Asparagus and Cornish Crab Mayonnaise with pea and mint purée, pickled cucumber and blood orange with sherry vinegar jellies.

The main courses were equally light but flavoursome; both chicken and fish were perfectly cooked and there was clear attention to detail in balance and presentation. The quality of the ingredients was excellent; so often with a set menu you are left feeling that corners have been cut, but that is far from the case here.

  • Poached Fillet of Cornish Cod with Langoustine Risotto, squid and piquillo red peppers and sea beet leaves.

  • Landes French Chicken Breast and Chicken Skin crumb with creamed Jersey Royal potatoes, morel mushrooms and peas with maple bacon and wild garlic sauce.

Our desserts were pretty as a picture - we particularly liked the delicate butterfly tuile - and two of the more technically-demanding for a chef: a soufflé and a fondant. As such, they are not often included in set or prix fixe menus so it was a pleasant surprise to see them here, and done so well.

  • Kentish Strawberry Soufflé with white chocolate sauce, strawberry jam and shortbread crumb.

  • Dark Chocolate Fondant with hazelnut soft centre, salted chocolate sauce and praline ice-cream.

It's a very chic and pretty dining room on a quiet road, which makes the meal feel even more of a special treat. Service was impeccable; attentive but not at all intrusive; all in all, a relaxed and delightful lunch which is an absolute steal.

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Deputy Editor, Chatting Food London: Amanda David

Amanda David is a freelance food writer specialising in London’s restaurants, bars, exhibitions and events. She is the Events Editor and a contributing writer for London Cheapo, a regular contributor to Palate Magazine and a Member of the Guild of Food Writers.

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Instagram: @LondonGAT


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