Jo Aspin takes a trip to new restaurant Treadwells to give their Sunday lunch a critique.
Photo credit: Adam Lynk
Oxford locals have been waiting some time in anticipation of the opening of The Store, a new swanky hotel and spa in central Oxford. Taking over the former Boswells department store, the huge renovation was finally complete this spring (2024).
While The Store seems firmly on everyone’s list now reopened, the hotel’s restaurant Treadwells feels quite a lot less on people’s radar. Despite having its own entrance on Broad Street, there has been little chatter about the new restaurant as a dining destination.
Perhaps that’s why we got an invite? Happy to oblige, this roving Oxfordshire reporter shouted at the kids to ‘put on something smart’ and took a stroll to town with the family to give their Sunday lunch a trial.
Photo credit: Adam Lynk
Pub quiz intel: Treadwell is named after the historic Treadwell Passage, dating back to 1841, the ground which the restaurant now sits upon. The passage was once a bustling hub of Oxford, home to the fish hawker, shoemaker, needlewomen and more.
The menu of starters offered a creative mix. We opted for chargrilled octopus which was accompanied with a lovely fresh and citrusy apple salad offering plenty of crunch.
Nduja, spring onion and coriander croquettes with aioli were devoured in seconds by us all and our chargrilled asparagus had a punchy burnt chilli whipped feta sauce with it.
The Sunday roast offering at Treadwells is an easy-to-choose affair with just two meats to pick from each week and one vegan option. Roast chicken is always on the menu and the rest (lamb, beef, turkey) on rotation. Lunch is served on large raised sharing platters with all the sides - roasties, parsnips, carrots, cheesy leeks, sausage wrapped in bacon and creamy mash potato. Not forgetting a large Yorkshire pudding each.
I wonder if I’m somewhat a bit of a gravy addict as most often I’m always asking restaurant staff to please refill those tiny little white gravy jugs with some more. This is not an issue at Treadwells as our roast was accompanied by a half litre jug of gravy. Bliss.
Newflash: Kids eat free on Sunday lunch too with more than enough to go around. What a steal!
For an otherwise tasty traditional English Sunday meal, I felt the lamb lacked a bit of get up and go,
as the seasoning was fairly plain. I couldn’t detect any rosemary or garlic as stated on the menu,
and sadly the accompanying mint sauce mentioned never made it to the table.
The dining room itself is light and airy with loads of space between diners, and super comfy banquettes and chairs and we certainly felt as though we were left to our leisure to enjoy our Sunday afternoon.
The verdict? A decent new central Oxford location for a Sunday meal with friends or family with an additional bonus for anyone feeding kids.
Treadwells
1-5 Broad St, Oxford OX1 3AG
Features Editor, Chatting Food: Jo Aspin
Jo Aspin is a freelance writer specialising in UK restaurants, travel, food and drink. She is also a Director at hospitality PR agency Amy Williams Consultancy, based in London.
Follow Jo at:
Instagram: @welovechilli
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